TinkerKin

for the love of the book, san francisco

I adore books.

In all honesty, I love printed matter in any shape, size or form. I have lost many a Saturday afternoon, perusing through the dust-riddled pages of vintage editions, magazines, used pamphlets and other paper ephemera, looking at illustrations, reading excerpts and discovering the new worlds as they suddenly emerge at my fingertips. For me, there is nothing more satisfying than a book showing the yellowing, the creases and the cracks that come from the love of someone else’s life.

As a tribute, I am calling out my favorite bookstores in the city of San Francisco. Whether visiting, new to the Bay Area or a long-time resident, be sure to visit these amazing spaces, buy a book, read a story and take a break from technology.

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The Russian Hill Bookstore ~ Polk Street, Russian Hill

One of the things that I have learned, the hard way, about San Francisco is that hidden gems are around every corner and tucked into every side street. I cannot count how many times I have visited a neighborhood, scoured the location - repeatedly, thoroughly - only to find months later that I missed the best part. This feeling is intensified by the fact that businesses come and go faster than you can keep up in this city of high rent and revolving door tastes. The Russian Hill Bookstore was one of those places that I missed, have discovered, and now visit, several times a month, like a religion.

The venue was started as the Sunset Bookstore in 1974 by Carol Spencer. In 2017, Carol sold the business, which had relocated to the Russian Hill neighborhood from Sunset years before, to Benjamin Bellouin and Jessica Tsang. These longtime managers moved the location to a new space shortly thereafter (further down Polk Street towards Pacific Avenue) and now have a beautiful, new storefront to call home. The love that the community, the employees and the patrons have for this haven of books is not to be underestimated, evident in the people that support and visit this thriving, independent store.

The Russian Hill Bookstore is a treasure trove of literary wonders. With wall-to-wall bookshelves, the venue blends together an array of printed media - items like comics, first editions, vintage books, new printings, old magazines, postcards - it is amazing what can be found in its cavernous depths. I have purchased some of the most beautiful, illustrated books here and usually make a trip at least every other weekend just to spend some time digging around. When you make a visit, I highly recommend the sections on cooking, comics and children’s books, but be sure to grab a step stool and investigate the upper shelves. There are great finds - especially for those who are willing to take the concept of exploration to the next level.

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Green Apple Books ~ Clement Street, Inner Richmond

Green Apple Books was founded by Richard Savoy in the 1960’s, and at that time, was known for its stock of comics, novels and National Geographic magazines. The store has continued to grow and expand over the past 50 plus years, slowly acquiring nearby spaces, developing into a  crazy matrix of back rooms and hidden nooks. Green Apple now has two locations - one at 506 Clement Street and another at 520 Clement. With over 160,000 new and used books, the store is one of the best booksellers in the Bay Area. Like the Russian Hill Bookstore, upon Richard Savoy’s retirement, the store was bought by three long-time employees in the 1990’s. Kevin Hunsanger, Kevin Ryan and Pete Mulvihill now maintain and grow this amazing collection of printed treasures.

Like many of the bookstores in San Francisco, Green Apple (the original location) carries with it some of the city’s old school charm. Upstairs, the gas light fixtures still adorn the walls and the wood stairs and plank floors creak loudly as you peruse through the zigzagging maze of books. There is a sense of history here, but beyond that, there are great staff recommendations and discounted, must-have titles around every corner. For example, I was able to pick up a discounted copy of S. Morgenstern’s The Princess Bride (William Goldman’s version) and this is where I first discovered Ginette Mathios’ cookbook I Know How to Cook with beautiful illustrations by the one-and-only Blexbolex. Green Apple does an amazing job of keeping some truly unique titles in stock - titles you may have a hard time finding with some of the more mainstream booksellers.

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City Lights Bookstore ~ Columbus Avenue, North Beach

City Lights Books is the literary hub of San Francisco. Located in the busy North Beach neighborhood on the border of Chinatown, this independent bookstore was founded in 1953 by Peter Martin and the poet, Lawrence Ferlinghetti. The venue has always been known as a melting pot of literature and progressive politics, much of this due to the amazing pocket poetry published from City Lights in the 1950’s and 1960’s. Combined with the fact that City Lights was at the center of the 1956 obscenity trial over Allen Ginsberg’s collection, Howl and Other Poems, the bookstore-publisher’s reputation as a true patron of the arts has been more than established. In 2001, the store was declared a historical landmark and has continued to be a must-see location for visitors and locals alike.

City Lights, like Green Apple Books, has grown and expanded over the years. Originally located at 261 Columbus Avenue in a tiny, triangular storefront, the bookstore has stretched out over time, taking over and crawling through neighboring spaces. Now made up of three floors, the eclectic hub that makes up City Lights is an amazing collection of books, magazines and other printed matter. A visitor can explore the amazing fiction and literary magazine options upstairs - which includes new releases and incredible staff recommendations - or head down the small, narrow staircase to explore topics like cultural studies, music, film, teenage literature and a cacophony of other subjects. When you visit, be sure to stop by the women’s studies section on the bottom floor. I have been able to find some absolute must-read titles here (such as Jane Sexes It Up by Merri Lisa Johnson). If these topics are not your cup of tea though, have no fear - there are seemingly never-ending shelves of spectacular publications to explore.

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Dog Eared Books ~ Valencia Street, The Mission

Dog Eared Books, of all the bookstores on this list, is the newest to the city of San Francisco. Founded in 1992, the store was started by book lover Kate Rosenberger (who also owns Alley Cat Books on 24th Street). Originally located in a small space on Valencia Street (where Needles & Pens now reside), Kate moved into the larger venue on the corner of 20th and Valencia almost 20 years ago. In 2016, to add to Dog Eared’s legacy, Kate opened a second storefront in the exciting Castro district.

Filled with a blend of new and used books, small press publications, local literature, independent and large scale zines and antiquarian titles, Dog Eared is an amazing treasure trove for local and visiting booklovers alike. With sunlight streaming in the large front windows, hours can be spent perusing through books in the Mission Street location alone. Filled with multi-tiered bookshelves - with piles strewn here and there - Dog Eared is the space to find works you never knew existed but suddenly must have. I have spent an inordinate amount of time in the children’s section of this amazing store and believe this was where I discovered Wittgenstein’s Rhinoceros by Francoise Armengaud (with illustrations by the breathtaking Annabelle Buxton). As an admirer of illustrated books, seeing the array of independent and well-established publishers in this venue results in a day of almost endless, page-turning fun. While there, be sure to check out the amazing cooking section as well. Like the Russian Hill Bookstore, unique finds can can be discovered if you only dedicate some time diving into the dark recesses of literary perfection.

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In my opinion, it is hard to go wrong with any bookstore, but this is a great starting guide to those that are looking for the best-of-the-best in the city of San Francisco. Enjoy!